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May 19th 2006...

Poperinge – Ypres . A rest day amongst the Flanders fields.

We had a meal and a carafe of red wine last night in the Café de la Pays in the square in Poperinge. Almost full of locals, good service and good food.

This morning, I had a better look around Talbot House including the chapel on the third floor reached by a very steep and narrow set of stairs. A glimmer of sun shone in through one of the windows as I climbed up, shining right onto two kneelers. A quiet moment to think about all the people who had fought bravely and died and my son who fought his own personal battle with such courage and dignity. Said goodbye to Sylvia after a team photo and a kiss. She gave us a donation and has become a friend after 12 hours and wanted us to stay another night.

Knowing I had only 10 miles to walk today, my whole body was wound down and I followed Sandra for the first 2 miles before getting into a rhythm. Another flat, straight road with a wide cycle path and not much traffic. The gale was blowing us to Ypres and, luck with us again, we had only light rain for a few minutes despite the menacing clouds.

It's impossible to walk anywhere around here without becoming aware of WW1, the cemeteries are everywhere – Red Hill, Hop Store, Birr Road and Hooge Crater are only some of the British and Commonwealth Cemeteries we passed as we headed east. They dominate the landscape in a quiet, imposing sort of way and the dark clouds and howling gale added to the impression.

After 4 miles, Phil called us over to the van for bacon butties – the first of the walk – and then we were off again. Taking our time we stopped for a coffee in a roadside bar and chatted to the locals who had noticed the T-shirt. Didn't mention about Tim to them and talked about football – seemed the right thing to do.

Crossing the railway line, we could see the massive spire of the church in Ypres and headed towards it. Instead of going in, however, we visited St. George's , the English church established by Field Marshal, Sir John French in 1927. Didn't know that Montgomery and Churchill, heroes of another war, fought at the Ypres salient. Had my picture taken by the inscription of the Flanders Fields poem.

After a slight detour down the wrong road, we found our way onto the N8 and the road to Menen and stopped for the day by the Hooge Crater cemetery and museum and found a B&B one mile up the road. Dan, Jonno and Jay are coming out on the Eurostar to Lille to walk with us for 3 days this evening. They are sharing a room with Phil, two of them on bunk beds. Plan for a Chinese meal tonight and a long, straight 22 miles tomorrow.

Yellow jersey award for walker of the day – Sandra

Distance covered – 10.0 miles Total covered – 202.0 miles



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